Turn ON the grill and let it run for 5 minutes to check if it starts working (pellets in the firepot should start to smoke, and heat should radiate from the firepot).Reconnect the Hot Rod's fiberglass-wrapped wire's Molex connector (cream and red colored wires in picture) with the purple and white connector to ensure the connection is secure.Turn OFF the grill and disconnect the fiberglass-wrapped wire's Molex connector from the purple and white Molex connector.If you can not feel the heat - continue troubleshooting.If you can feel the heat - the grill is fine.With the grill still ON and set to Smoke, hold your hand over the firepot without touching it and check if you feel the heat radiating.If a wire swap test is required for troubleshooting, the associated section below will direct you to perform the correct wire swap test. This method allows us to see if the controller or the part is at fault. The test involves disconnecting the part's wires from the controller and reconnecting to a different port. See below under Wire Swap Test for more information.Ī wire swap test is used to determine whether the grill controller or a specific grill component (fan, hotrod, auger motor) is faulty and requires replacement. If the component continues not to work after reconnection and ensuring all the connectors are connected to the proper spots, check the wire swap test for each component before determining if a replacement is necessary.Follow the chart below to ensure the proper connectors are connected. If the connector is not disconnecting, spray a bit of WD40 on the connector and try again.Gently pull on and wiggle each plug to disconnect. Disconnect each connector on the back of the controller.Unscrew and carefully pull out the grill controller from the hopper.Non-WiFIRE Enabled (AC) Grill Wiring How to Ensure Proper Component Connection The pins numbers are marked on one side.Īux and perif are the same, you either get sata (5 wires) or molex (4 wires) just pin the the psu side correctly to your needs.Steps to ensure proper wire connection when you get errors noting a component is disconnected on your AC grill. There is a "molex" type connector included with the cables for the power supply for those who don't have one handy. I included the standard colors in the list above for those who might do what I did and use an old matching male connector they had laying about. I was going to place an illustration here for others who may have the same issue, however, it seems the only way is to include one is to supply a link to it and I didn't want to hot link to one and use someone else's bandwidth. So I am going with that pin arrangement to use it to power the device I needed 12V for (a USB port extender). Using a voltmeter, it would seem that the Perif1 plug is the same. In any event, I have looked up the pin-outs for the long time standard "peripheral" power plug. Unfortunately the illustrations in your post do not include the Perif1 cable to which I referred. I'm sure the pin-outs shown will be helpful in the future. So here is a pin list instead: Pin 1 - (Yellow) +12V Pin 2 - (Black) Common Pin 3 - (Black) Common Pin 4 - (Red) +5V I included the standard colors in the list above for those who might do what I did and use an old matching male connector they had laying about.
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